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| Meeting in Pangbourne |
Where better for a summer cycling get together than Oxford ? City of dreaming spires, location for the TV series Morse and between 1973 and 1976, believe it or not, Westminster College in North Hinksey was my home for three glorious years. So this tour enabled me to relive, reminisce and share some of those intimate moments from the halcyon days of the mid 70's with friends who were barely born then!
We gathered from different parts of the UK and met in Pangbourne in a pub by the river Thames which seemed fitting given that the river and pubs would play a large part of our three day cycling trip. We were to based at the luxurious Premier Inn in Botley, just over a mile from Oxford city centre and the same from the campus of my old alma mater and we were, Richard The Walton Wheeler, Einar The Highgate Viking, Malcolm the Grinstead Giggler and myself.
With the weather set fair we planned 3 rides:
But first I needed to show my young pals my old stamping ground, the now largely deserted campus of Westminster College. The College was founded by the Methodist Church in 1851 to train teachers and was based in London on Horseferry Road. To increase the number of student places and to become co-educational, the College moved to new premises on Harcourt Hill in 1959, overlooking the city of Oxford. As teacher training became more integrated (on the job training) in 2000 the College became part of Oxford Brookes University.
I arrived in September 1973, along with about 200 other fresh faced wanna be teachers. My first desire of course was to become a professional footballer but as that was never going to happen, the next best thing was to become a PE teacher! Three years of studying and playing sports and vaulting over boxes and kayaking down the River Wye, interspersed with the occasional geography lecture and the odd night out in the Fishes Inn with like minded people.... could life get any better ?
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| Westminster College Campus circa 1973 |
The ride up Harcourt Hill seemed steeper than I remembered, maybe age has caught up with me ?
We rode around the campus with much of the original student accommodation still standing but no longer being used. The Chapel, swimming pool and lecture rooms eerily quiet and in passing them I swear I could still hear the voices of friends echoing from 50 years ago. I also discovered where the library was.
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| Come unto me! |
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The College Chapel
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We returned to the hotel via the Bear and Ragged Staff, a quaint rural pub/hotel in Cumnor before heading off for dinner in the Fishes, once the scene of many raucous nights, but now an upmarket Gastro pub with a large garden.
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| The Fishes |
After tucking into the full breakfast on Friday morning we assembled in the car park for the pre cycle faff. For those cyclists amongst you, you will know that "faffing " is an essential part of the cyclists ritual. For those not familiar with the term, it involves packing bags with useless things that you may think you'll need whilst out riding, adjusting bags on the bike and generally delaying the departure. Richard is the king of faffing, closely followed by Einar with Malcolm not far behind in third place.
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| Childish breakfast japes |
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| Friday's Frolics |

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Faffing
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With the faffing complete we rolled out of the car park and headed north on the cycle path that quietly runs parallel to the A34, passing the famous Trout Inn at Wolvercote. We soon encountered the madness of the Pear Tree roundabout, where the A44 and the A34 meet, during the morning rush hour. The NCR 5 eased us up the side of the A44 heading for Woodstock skirting the interestingly named London Oxford Airport? Woodstock, not the one famed for it's music festival in 1969, sits on the eastern edge of the Cotswolds and is probably most famous for Blenheim Palace. This magnificent country house is the seat of the Dukes of Marlborough and birth place of Sir Winston Churchill.
Our route wouldn't allow us to get very close to the Palace itself so we had to settle for some views from afar!
Once we'd navigated though the spectacular grounds we stopped for a well deserved coffee in Long Hanborough before heading south towards Witney and a particularly unpleasant section riding along the cycle path facing the on coming traffic of the A40 as it hurtled towards Oxford.
Witney is a very pretty market town on the River Windrush and is famed for its wool production and in particular its blankets. We avoided the town centre which was busy with Friday's shoppers but did glimpse the impressive St Mary The Virgin Church through the narrow streets before picking up the lane through Ducklington and south into the Windrush valley. At this point Richard decided to make some alterations to the route, probably to make up for the amount of time we'd spent on or alongside, busy roads. So our off road segment took in the aptly named Chimney Meadows. Tracks over open fields, gates and bridges culminated in a ford crossing !
Not getting wet was a bonus so we pressed on via the wonderfully named villages of Hinton Waldrist and Kingston Bagpuize before discovering the Plough Inn in the village of Appleton.
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| The Plough, Appleton |
Having nearly slated our thirsts we made our way back through Cumnor, this time deciding not to stop at the Bear and Ragged Staff but instead heading for the garden of the Fishes Inn to end the day's ride before heading back to the hotel for a night in with pizza and football!
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| The Fishes |
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| Saturday's Sojourn |
The faffing on Saturday morning was of monumental proportions. Another day blessed with a cloudless sky witnessed some of the best of the pre ride faffing ever. It had been decided that Greggs on the Botley Road was the favourite for breakfast, given that it was on our way to the planned route as shown in the map above. We eventually located the Greggs inside the railway station concourse and for anyone that has been to Oxford in the last 4 years will know of the utter chaos that the closure of the Botley Road bridge has caused to anyone approaching the city and the railway station from the west!
With bacon butties quaffed we found the cycle path that runs alongside the Thames (or Isis as it's known in Oxford) and headed south witnessing as we went, numerous boat crews and spectators, racing along the water and the towpath.
Passing through Iffley and Kennington we soon connected with NCR 5 through Radley, home to Radley College who can boast of having cricketers Ted Dexter and Andrew Strauss as its former pupils as well as actors Desmond Llewellyn (Q in the Bond movies) and Dennis Price!
We edged round Abingdon until we found the outskirts of Sutton Courtenay, just to the north of Didcot. The ride now started to get interesting in strange way - reclamation sites and old gravel pits which gave off unsavoury odours and given the state of the cinder track, it was a miracle that no one got a puncture. Then to cap it off, on an off road track that had ruts along it that were so big, I assumed that a Sherman Tank had made them, we came across an Ocado delivery van that was stuck in the middle. We offered to help but our offer was declined....so we rode on....scratching our heads and pondering who would be waiting for their groceries to be delivered.
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| Heading for Wallingford |
The Boat Inn in Wallingford was a welcome stop for us after the excitement of the morning. So we settled into our riverside seats to replenish lost fluids whist witnessing the comings and goings of river users in various crafts. The paddle boarders gave us much amusement with their antics of trying to get the boards out of the water and the would be Captain Pugwashes trying to manoeuvre the overpriced electric motor boats had our own nautical genius, Malcom, with a few words of wisdom for them.
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| The Boat Inn, Wallingford |
Wallingford was as far south as we were going so we headed north passing RAF Benson and continuing to climb with great views over the Oxfordshire countryside and to the Chiltern Hills beyond.
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| Refreshment stop |
In the village of Forest Hills we came across yet another little gem of a pub - The White Horse - so we had to stop to sample what was on offer.
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| The White Horse |
The friendly landlord even brought our drinks to the table with complimentary crisps. We engaged in conversation with a fellow cyclist who had been out picking fruit with is son. He suggested there was an even better pub a few miles down the road.... we had to give it a try.
The Abingdon Arms in Beckley is a community owned pub and was slightly off our route but we figured it was worth a visit! We sat outside underneath a Blue Plaque that informed us that Evelyn Waugh wrote, drank and loved there between 1924 and 1931. The lager was from Jeremy Clarkson's brewery, Hawkstone whilst the cider was from the Hook Norton Brewery. It wasn't until later that we found out that the cider should have come from the Diddly Squat farm as the three of us who drank it suffered from the Diddly squats!
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| The Abingdon Arms |
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| Nearly Diddly Squat time |
From Beckley it was all down hill thankfully through north Oxford and down past some of the iconic landmarks of Oxford, Blackwells Bookshop, The Bodleian Library and the back of Merton College before emerging onto the cycle path that took us across Willow Walk and the sanctuary of the Fishes Inn in North Hinksey and just time for a group photograph outside the church yard.
Dining that evening was courtesy of the Tempering Indian restaurant in Botley, conveniently staggering distance from the hotel.
Sunday was yet another cracking day, bright sunshine, light winds and a route that would take us west to the edge of the Cotswolds and eventually finish our 3 day tour in the Trout Inn in Wolvercote.
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| Chief faffer |
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Sunday's Route
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But first there was the small matter of breakfast - during the pre breakfast coffee the options for further sustenance were explored - some favoured another trip to Greggs but as that was in the opposite direction from where we were heading so we plumped for the Cherry Tree Cafe in Eynsham, which coincidently was where, way back in the summer of 1974, I had taken the first steps to becoming a teacher! Bartholomew School had been my first teaching practice placement....but that's another story.
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| Croissant anyone ? |
The road to Eynsham was busy so it was head down and get there as quickly as possible. 20 minutes later we found the Cherry Tree Cafe which was fortunately just opening and we were soon tucking in to bacon baps and cups of tea. Suitably replete, our first tricky encounter was to get across the A40 without getting hit by speeding cars. Carefully choosing our moment to zip from one side of the road to the other, took a great deal courage and expert timing, but we made it and headed north on quiet country lanes heading for Charlbury.
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Heading for Charlbury
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Shortly after the above photograph was taken our peaceful Sunday ride was suddenly shattered by a motorbike club's outing - at least 30 huge growling machines with stereos blasting cruised passed us on the way to God knows where?! At this point Richard decided to adjust the route so that it would take us through Cornbury Deer Park. Richard does not have a great track record when it comes to choosing routes, so we expected the worse. As it turned out , it was a good alteration despite Malcolm's misgivings but may have lead to Einar's chain malfunction on several occasions.
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| Cornbury Park |
We arrived inn Charlbury, a lovely Cotswold town in the Evenlode valley, just in time for some liquid refreshment which we took in the Bell Inn, a 17th Century pub in the bustling market town.
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| Charlbury |
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| The Bell Inn |
After basking in the sunshine on the terrace at the Bell we headed east to encounter another main road to cross, the A44. Not quite as taxing as the A40 but still busy. We decided to drop down the hill into the village of Tackley rather than take the turning at the top, which was our prescribed route. This turned out to be a momentous decision. At the bottom of the hill we found the Gardiner Arms, very much a locals pub, where we sat outside enjoying the glorious weather and a glass or two of electric lemonade.
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| Things are about to get interesting |
There was some discussion over which route we should take to get back to our original one. Flushed with the success of his earlier choice of the tree rooted track through the deer park, Richard insisted that we followed him as he had plotted a way that would get us back onto the road to Kirtlington. Foolishly we did - until we came to the railway line and Tackley Station - no where to cross the line and all fenced off. Richard , still insisting that there was a way along a track that ran parallel to the railway, said we should press on. Einar, Malcolm and I voted with our legs and pedalled back the way we had come , up the hill and took the road we should have been on an hour before. As we pedalled away we did wonder at what point we would meet up with Richard. Speculation grew as we passed through Kirtlington and there was no sign of him. Would we ever see him again or was he racing to the Trout in order to get there before us? Fortunately he'd had the sense to share his location on WhatsApp - thank goodness for technology. He eventually emerged in Bletchingdon to join us so we were able to finish the ride together. Down through Kidlington before heading off to Wolvercote and our destination the Trout Inn.
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| The Trout Inn |
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| Together again at the Tout |
And then the weekend was over as quickly as it started. With 234 kms cycled, we had been blessed with superb weather, great scenery, plenty of pubs, lots of laughs and as always, great friendship. For me, it had also been a return to a time of youthful innocence!
Until the next meeting of the FFCC - happy cycling!