It was after we got back from the Isle of Man that I suggested to the others
that if they had any time in July, I fancied going back to Ireland to do some
cycling. I had been there many times before when I was working and had also
visited for short breaks at various times of the year. Einar had run out of
holidays, Malcolm would have only just returned from a spell in the Arctic so
rightly, was reluctant to miss his 20th Wedding Anniversary and the Fairfield
Flyer, Colin, was in Turkey. Richard said that he had a few days to spare to the
plan was hatched for the two of us to enjoy freewheeling the byways and lanes of
south east Ireland in the July sunshine. This vision proved to be a little far
from the truth!
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IRELAND - PART 1
We drove to Fishguard with the bikes and panniers loaded up in Richard's car -
far more comfortable than rattling down to west Wales in the VW Golf - I had
arranged for us to leave the car in the Coop Car Park in Fishguard for the 4
days we would be away which we duly found on the outskirts of the town. I'm not
sure what the Saturday lunchtime shoppers made of us getting stuff out of the
car and stowed on our bikes and changing into cycling gear, but we received some
very strange glances during this prepartory stage of the trip.
Our plan, once we had arrived in Rosslare, was to cycle the 20km to the Talbot
Hotel in Wexford in time to watch as much of the Switzerland ve England game as
possible. The crossing was very comfortable and smooth and we availed ourselves
to the facilities and beverages in the Stena Plus Lounge on Deck 6 with the a
visit to the Duty Free Shop and Bar thrown in for good measure.
We disembarked from the Stena Nordica fairly quickly and started the fast flat
journey to Wexford along the busy N25 road. Fortunately there is a designated
cycle lane which we were very grateful for. We arrived at our hotel in good time
, having missed nothing much to write home about on the football pitch, so we
settled in to watch extra time and penalties with a couple of glasses of
Tullamore Dew in hand.
Sleep couldn't come soon enough after dinner, a couple of pints of Guinness and yet more soccer on the TV. Then the snoring began .... both as bad as each other ... I'm surprised we didn't receive any complaints from other hotel guests on the 3rd floor.
The full Irish breakfast meant that my low fat diet would have to go on hold for a few more days. Our destination for Sunday's cycle was to be Waterford, Irelands 3rd largest city and home of the world famous Waterford Crystal. I had done the factory tour several times before in a previous life and had marvelled at the skill of the glass blowers and engravers and cutters particularly the cutters...imagine getting to the last cut an intricate pattern on a piece worth thousands of pounds and your hand slips and the piece explodes into millions of tiny shards? I'm sure it never happens..
The 65km route would take in a ferry crossing from Ballyhack to Passage East across the mouth of the Three Sisters, the Rivers Nore, Suir and Barrow and the entrance to Waterford Harbour but before that delightful journey we needed to get to Wellington Bridge. Our planned route took us on a busy road which became increasingly more uncomfortable to the point of being dangerous so we re-assessed our options and went for a slightly longer route which took in the delightful country lanes that one would normally associate with Ireland. The added benefit of the amended route was that it was well signposted as Eurovelo 1. Following Europe’s western border, reaching from Scandinavia, to South and Western Portugal, the Atlantic Coast Route visits the fjords of Norway, the wild Irish coastline, the rough cliffs of Brittany and the sun-kissed beaches of Portugal, totalling 11,000 km. I suggested we saved that trip for next year when we had a bit more than 4 days.
We stopped for some refreshment before the descent to the ferry and the heavens opened just as we were leaving ensuring by the time we freewheeled through Arthurstown, with its brightly coloured cottages, and onward to Ballyhack, we were well and truly soaked through.
Our climb out from Passage East was accompanied by the herd of wild goats that have lived on the hillside nearby for over 200 years. It's reported that local opinions are divided, some are very protective of the goats whilst other locals claim that their gardens and vegetables have been destroyed by them. We were amused by the sight of Billy and Nanny standing precariously on a wall munching on a clump of nettles.
Rather than take a long detour on Eurovelo 1 that would have taken in Dunmore East we opted for the shorter route so arrived in the city to welcomed by the very helpful reception staff at the Granville Hotel right on the quayside in the heart of Waterford. With our bikes secured and a fresh change of clothes we headed out to sample the hedonistic delights of Ireland's oldest City, originally founded by the Vikings as a strategic trading centre, it has grown into one of Ireland's major ports.
Our first call was to the highly recommended J & K Victorian Pub and Grocers which was a 2 minute stroll from our hotel. On entering there were numerous signs for chocolate and a vast array of draws and shelves behind the counter. The token red headed bar maid served us 2 pints of Guinness and we sat on woodenstools at the bar and discussed our day's achievemnets.
Our next port of call was Geoff's Cafe Bar, where we ate, drank and listened to the music. This lively place certainly had a unique feel to it with old tiled floors, wooded pannelled walls, a stove and a host of posters marking past musical performances.
The follwing day we headed for the seaside town of Tramore. We took the scenic route following Waterford Greenway and Eurovelo 1 before arriving into the bustling resort. Tramore, for me has been like a second home where I made a lot of friends over many years. My initial visit was way back in the 1980's when I was lucky enough to get involved with an exchange between Tramore Sea & Cliff Rescue Unit and the Coastguard and Lifeboat Units of Atlantic College, where I worked. Annual pilgrimmages would take place each March with groups of students and staff from AC travelling over to Ireland to spend time training with the young people who made up the volunteer crews of TS&CRU. A reciprocal visit would occur in Augustwhen we hosted them in Wales. Many, many happy memories of the exchanges came flooding back to me as we rode into town and I was looking forward to catching up with old friends, Anthony & Zeta Murray who had kindly agreed to host us for the night in their home in Fenor, just outside the town.
We eventually found their house which hadn't moved since I last vistited it 20 years ago when Anthony had first built it! What had changed was the vegetationin in front of it, obscuring the house from the road. Thankfully, Anthony was returning from work and spotted us on the road ao was able to guide us back! We spent the afternoon chatting about old times and took their dogs for a quick stroll on Kilfarrasay beach, a deserted rocky beach, a stone's throw from the house.
We were treated to pre dinner drinks in the the pub in Fenor, Mother McHughs, which had the added bonus of catching up with some of the elder members of TS&CRU, now in their 80's who still meet on a Monday between 5 & 7 pm as they always have done since 1963 when they were involved withe Tramore Lifeboat. A quick visit to the Lifeboat station (Monday night is training night) and a catch up with more old friends, before another pre dinner aperitif in the Ritz, a thatched pub within spitting distance of the Lifeboat station. Dinner on the seafront and back for a nightcap before collapsing into bed.... and a lot of snoring... to end a great day with a lot of happy memories and not much cycling!
Tuesday was to be our longest day and wettest day by far. Leaving Fenhor in light drizzle seemed to set the day up to a tee! Our goodbyes to A & Z were emotional... I promised it wouldn't be another 20 yers before I returned and A & Z. who were heading to Spain in their camper van, promised to come and visit us in Wales....soon!
So we headed back to the Passage East Ferry in the rain nursing slightly fuzzy heads. Onward to Welligtonbridge. where we stopped for lunch in a cavenous pub and then back roads to Tagoat to our B & B. No hot water was almost acceptable but no food in the pub opposite was scandalous! We made do with Uber Eats Pizza, the remnants of a bottle of Jamesons and streaming the Spain v France on our iphones like a couple of teenagers....luxury!
The ferry back to Fishguard was uneventful, another smooth crossing got us back on schedule and the short cycle back to the car made sure we were on the road and heading to London in good time to watch England football team qualify for the final! The 5 hour drive dragged towards the end but at least we got to listen to Test Match Special setting the scene very nicely for our own visit to Lords the following day.
There's nothing quite like a day at Lords watching a test match, quintessentially English it has it all - the members pavillion with the jackets, ties and straw hats in the traditional plum & custard colours. The popping of champagne corks and the hampers of quails eggs and cold chicken slices at lunch and the £8.50 a pint served in a plastic glass! Alternatively you could have a glass a Pimms for £13, also served in a plastic glass! No matter, we enjoyed our day out and were pleased to be part of Jimmy Anderson's final test appearance for England.
Friday was a rest day after the exertions of the previous week but Richard & I did manage a quick jaunt down the Thames towpath on our bikes late in the afternoon to reconnoitre my route home for the following day. We did of course have to slate our thirsts in a river side pub!
PART 2 -BACK
So a week after boarding a ferry for Ireland it was homeward bound for me. My intention was to cycle all the way from Walton 0n Thames to Llantwit Major in 4 days, staying at Premier Inns and B & B's en route.
Leaving Walton on Thames early on Saturday morning was a good move. The traffic on the busy roads grew steadily as the day progressed. Cycling through Staines and then passed the film studios at Shepperton and onward through Windsor Great park and the race course at Ascot, eventually arriving in the uninspiring town of Bracknell and then the equally uninspiring city of Reading, made me think maybe I should have chosen a different route. Windsor Great Park was stunningly well manicured with mature trees and sandy horse gallops and the road surfaces were pothole free!
A short stop at Sainsbury's on the outskirts of Reading to stock up with essentials, I made it through the city centre and eventually to Aldermaston Wharf where I joined the tow path of the Kennet & Avon Canal heading for Newbury for the night.
Sunday was to be one of the best day's cycling. Newbury to Trowbridge through the North Wessex Downs full of small market towns like Hungerford, Pewsey and Devizes and chocolate box villages and views up to the White Horse in the Vale of Pewsey. Back on to the tow path of the Avon & Kennet Canal which is home to many narrow boats owned by people seeking an alternative lifestyle. The 16 locks of Caen Hill are a tribute to canal engineering and a cyclists delight as you can free whell from top to bottom...avoiding the walkers!
Finally arriving in Trowbidge, I located the Premier Inn with it's first floor reception area, dreading having to remove all my luggage in order to get the bike into the lift. I was pleasantly surprised to find a large lift that carried me, my bike and all its luggage without any difficulty. I settled in for a night of wine and football - the final of Euros 2024 and the hope that England could bring some silverware home at last.... but... it was not to be!
Monday's weather forecast was, to put it mildly, shite! I had planned to get to Chepstow and spend the night there but the thought of another day of cycling in torrential rain did not fill me with enormous enthusiasm. So... I left Trowbridge very early in an attempt to get to Chepstow before most of the rain and then catch the train back to Llantwit. So it was back onto the towpath of the canal to Bath and then then onto the Bristol to Bath cycle path, round the Bristol ring road and back onto NCR 4. Over the Severn Bridge and into Chepstow... and at this point the rain came down ... in Biblical proportions. Sheltering in the safety of Chepstow railway station, waiting for my train, my final observation of my summer holiday 2024, is.....there is still no lift from Platform 2 to Platform 1, so if you are in a wheelchair, or a young mum or dad with a pram/pushchair or an elderly cyclist with a heavily laden ebike, and you want to get from Platform 2 to Platform 1... you're f****d!
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