Perth to Langholm

 Perth to Edinburgh Tuesday

What a difference a day makes! The gloom and despondency of yesterday disappeared as soon as the sunshine appeared. The concern over my electrical issue was still playing on my mind but the weather helped dissipate that. I met a couple of local cyclists heading in the same direction as me who stopped to offer words of encouragement, well I think that’s what they said? 

A siting of 2 hares loping across a field  made me realise how different the landscape now was in comparison to a few days ago. A long climb out of Perth and a road closure meant that I was considering looking for somewhere to recharge but the long downhill into Cowdenbeath prevented this. And then … karma… as I was about to cross the Firth of Forth , I spotted Ryan’s Bike Clinic, a small bike shop , run by Ryan!

 I explained my problem to him and lo and behold he produced the very spare part that I needed! He didn’t even charge me for fitting it So let’s hear it for Ryan,,, and to highlight the day further there was an axe throwing bar opposite Ryan’s shop! I did wonder whether he popped across during his lunch hours?

Crossing the Firth of Forth was like crossing the Severn Bridge only less traffic! Skirting round the west of  Edinburgh I eventually found my accommodation for the night, The Riccarton Inn. A pint, a bowl of Cullen Skink and it was bed time! 

Edinburgh to Melrose Wednesday

Refreshed, despite the people in the next door to  me attempting to hack their way into my room through their cupboard at 2 am, I left early in the Hope of dodging the rush hour traffic round Edinburgh  I timed it badly so the ring roads out of the city were busy with commuter traffic. Eventually the housing estates gave way to rolling hills and fields of rape seed  My route ran parallel to the main A7  along the Gala Water valley so the cycling was nice and easy. I stopped for coffee in a little village called Stow and as I left the rain started .A couple of showers later the sun reappeared so another stop to adjust my luggage and clothing and time for refuelling!

 Shortly after , I arrived in Galashiels, a bustling market town which is the commercial centre for the Borders area of Scotland and once famed for its textile industry. A short stones throw down the road was my hotel for the night, The Waverley Castle, a splendid 70 bedroom Victorian mansion set in its own parkland grounds. 

It was like stepping back in time and even better was I’d been upgraded to a Superior room, which meant I got biscuits with the tea and coffee in my room! I spent the early part of the evening in the hotel bar talking to a retired ship builder and his wife from Ulverston who were having a short break away from the bustle of the Lake District?! My day ended with food, a glass of wine and bed having planned tomorrow’s ride and booked my accommodation. It’s a simple life on the road! 

Melrose to Langholm Thursday

Breakfast was eaten in the company of the Malta Rugby Sevens team who were in town for a competition  Melrose apparently was where 7’s was invented. 

My route today took me on NCR 1 which ran alongside the River Tweed for a while  The sun shone and the cycling was nice and easy following the valleys south towards Eskdalemuir. A short climb out of Selkirk, an old mill town which reminded me of the mill towns of Yorkshire, and I was out into the rolling hills  of  the Borders. Sheep grazing in fields and and forest plantations were my company for a good few miles, scarcely populated with the occasional farm. The road which climbs its way up through Eskdalemuir Forest eventually comes down and provided me with about 7km of free wheeling at high speed, which took me out of the Borders and into Dumfries and Galloway. 

At this point I came across The Sanmyeling Tibetan Buddhist Temple. Opened in 1967 it provides a place of retreat and for Buddhist training. I had a wander round but saw no one and the only sounds wee from the sounds were from the prayer wheels turning. I must have done something in a former life and perhaps it was the wasp that I had killed in my shower the day before, but on leaving this place of tranquillity, the heavens opened and for the last 15 miles of the ride , I got a thorough soaking! 

I arrived at the Eskdale Hotel in Langholm like a drowned rat and dripped all over the reception area. I humped all my gear up to my room and turned on the radiator and the towel rail in the hope that by the morning , it’ll all be dry ready for Friday! 

Grantown to Perth Days 5 - 8

Rebecca had decided to join me for a second day of the journey so having gathered our goods at Ardenbeg and said farewell to my host Nick, we headed off for Dalwhinnie , 72 km away. We retraced yesterdays route to Boat of Garten where we refuelled on bacon & cheese croissants  

From the Boat of Garten we followed the Speyside Way cycle route through young saplings and heather to Aviemore with great views of the northern corries of the Cairngorms still spotted with their snow fields.

On from Aviemore the road to Kingussie was undulating but easy cycling and we came across a fellows JOGLER!  He was heading to Pitlochry and hoping to complete the tour in .2 weeks. A brief stop in Kingussie to take in a shinty game and lunch meant a gentle climb to our destination! 

Dalwhinnie was where Rebecca was to catch her train back to Inverness.So after posing for photos outside the Dalwhinnie Distillery and a quick cup of tea and a cake in the cafe, we parted ways! It was great to have her alongside and we shared many great memories from our days working together! 

The Old School hostel in Dalwhiinie is a stones throw from the station and was my base for the night. A single room but no en suite facilities meant a trip & a half to the loo. And that was passing the Stars War Bar  downstairs!  Interesting to say the least!!! 

Dalwhinnie to Pitlochry Sunday 

The day started well! A tour of the Dalwhinnie whisky distillery. Whisky & chocolate apparently go well together and it turns out that the Highland Chocolatier that supplies the distillery and many others with their chocolates is non other than a former Atlantic  college student, Iain Burnett. 

A leisurely climb to the highest point at Drumuachtar Pass meant an equally leisurely descent to Blair Atholl and a glimpse of the Duke’s castle. Apparently he can have his own private army! 

Pitlochry is a bustling hub filled with tourists but en route I encountered fellow cyclists, non going my way, including an elderly Frenchman towing a trailer. He spoke very little English but was heading for the north of Scotland! 

So now I’m just about out of the Highlands and into Southern Scotland , so we’ll see what that brings! 

Pitlochry to Perth Monday

I knew I was never going to get away with it! The rain started fall about 4am, I looked out from the hostel window to be faced with low cloud and mist and the prospect of a very wet day. Could it get any worse? The route was very enjoyable, following the Tay valley through Dunkeld. 

My bike computer decided to have a hissy fit and is now stuck in TURBO mode! I suppose it could be worse… it could be stuck in OFF, which would mean I would get no assistance pedalling at all! On arrival in Perth, wet and cold , I located a friendly bike shop who had a look at my problem but was unable to supply the necessary part.. so a big shout out for JM Richards in Perth, a family run bike shop in Perth since 1906. 

A quick clean of the chain, a trip to the M&S food hall and a retreat to the warmth of the Premier Inn meant that I could unpack & repack my panniers in the comfort of my room ready for Tuesday’s exertions to Edinburgh… all helped with my Dalwhinnie whisky samples! 

Tongue to Grantown on Spey Days 3 - 5

 Tongue to Lairg Wednesday May 3rd

The beauty of the northern coastline was replaced by the barren and desolate moorland of the Flow Country today.

 A short steep climb out of Tongue which sapped the batteries a tad, soon settled into an undulating jaunt along Loch Loyal with views of Ben Loyal to the west. The Flow country is the vast expanse of peat and  bog lands that occupy much of Caithness and Sutherland. The Motorhomes & Motorbikes racing around the NC500 had deserted me so I was left to pull into the passing places on the main road to let the occasional lorry and delivery van through. The highlight of the day was the complete and utter isolation and remoteness that the route offered.

 I cycled 30km without seeing any settlement.. with the exception of an old shooting lodge that was boarded up. A long 4km descent to Altnahara meant I didn’t need to pedal and Altnahara , despite its hotel, seemed to be a bit of of a one horse village that the horse had left! 

Lunchtime found me in the Crask Inn for a bowl of the most delicious Leek & Potato soup. It was like walking into the Slaughtered Lamb from American Werewolf in London… the bit when everyone stops talking and stares at you… I soon realised that they didn’t speak English! The final l 20 km through the newly planted  plantations proved to be a gentle descent into the village of Lairg and the safety of the Highland Hotel! 

Lairg to Inverness Thursday May 4th 

Having breakfasted with the other hotel guests I decided in view of the impending weather to opt for an early departure. Which was just as well, not as a result of the weather but the steep climb from Bonar Bridge took its toll on my legs and my batteries! The trip as far as Bonar Bridge had followed the River Shin  and a glimpse of the Shin Falls was an added bonus to my day. 

There were more spectacular views over the Firth of Dornoch and as I got closer to Inverness the roads got busier. I crossed the bridge into Inverness  and it was reminiscent of crossing the Pont de Normandie last year.

My arrival at the hostel was slightly early so a trip to Morrisons to get essential supplies was in order. Once settled in I spent some time talking to a gentleman from Suffolk who had brought his bike up on the train and was pootling round the area! My age and still willing to stay in dormitories?! Early  to bed after nearly 90 km and 750m of ascent and a good nights sleep! That was until the noisy party of cyclists arrived late into the room above! I did however get my own back early the following morning. 

Inverness to Grantown on Spey Friday May 5th

The selection of photos tells the story of a great day! Rebecca Heliwell joined me for todays jaunt from Inverness to Grantown on Spey. Dave, who I’d stayed with on the way up .., and Rebecca had both worked with me in my days at Atlantic  College. Both are former students and had worked summer vacations as activity Instructors at the Extramural Centre. Both are now working for the medical services in Scotland.  

After a sumptuous Scottish self service breakfast in Morrisons, Rebecca and I headed out of Inverness dodging the rush hour traffic and steadily climbing through Culloden to the high pass at Schold. A detour up a track which apparently was a military road built by General Wade in the 17th Century to move troops around the Highlands, many a slight delay as we decided to double back and opting for the tarmac version. Long down hill stretches brought us into the Spey valley and the villages of Carrbridge and Nethy Bridge   The sign on entering Carrbridge read, “ Home of the World Porridge Championhips”  I learned later that competitors compete for the Golden Spurtle! 

On reaching Grantown we located my B&B which I had previously stayed in in the 1980’s when it was a bunkhouse. The new owners Nick & Ceri Baker are in the process of turning into a B&B  so I had the only guest room that had been converted…luxury. Nick is a well known TV naturalist ( The Really Wild Show) and author of countless books on the natural world. He’s also a keen cyclist with several bikes adorning his garage! How many bikes can a man ride?! 

Dave, having driven from Elgin, joined us for supper in a local hotel, where we slurped our way through bowls of Cullen Skink. Rebecca and Dave also kindly agreed for Rebecca to accompany me on the journey to Dalwinnie. 

 

Wick to Tongue : Days 1 & 2

Wick to Thurso Monday 1st May

 I was hoping for an early start but dropping the van off proved to be slightly trickier than anticipated. Being a Bank Holiday, the designated garage for Hertz rentals was shut! Trying to speak to someone on the phone about the problem  also proved to be problematic. By the time I had scribbled a note and pushed the keys through the letter box of the garage, hoping that in my haste I hadn’t left the Sudacreme in the van, the rain had started and the northerly wind did blow…and continued to do so the 16 miles to JoG. With batteries running low I decided that an en route recharge was in order, the first time I’ve ever had to carry out such a manoeuvre and the JoG cafe was very obliging in letting plug in! I spoke briefly to couple of fellow Lycra clad chaps who were also setting off to complete the JOGLE in 2 weeks!  It didn’t start well for one of them as he fell off as he pulled away from the cafe! No damage done although his pride took a denting! 

The inevitable photos were taken and by now the weather had improved, well the rain had stopped, so the second part of the day was quite pleasant. The route that had sapped the juice was particularly undulating but offered spectacular views across a barren moorland landscape to the Orkney Islands and the cliffs of Hoy. Long straight stretches of road with virtually no traffic on led the way into Thurso where the highlight of the day was the closure of the High Street due to a collapsed building! On the other side of the bay from Thurso is the wonderfully named port of SCRABSTER, where you can catch the ferry to the Orkney Islands.  I always thought a SCRABSTER  was a dog that tries to hump your leg by wrapping its front paws round you and thrusts its pelvis menacingly ?  I eventually found my home for the night, The Premier Inn, which welcomed me with food, drink and a very comfy bed! 

Thurso to Tongue Tuesday 2nd May

What a difference a day makes , as the song goes. The wind hasd dropped and the sun was out! The first part of the day saw Thurso disappear behind me and long stretches of road ahead. As the morning wore on the road got busier with Motorhomes and motorbikes competing for road space as they tore around the North Coast 500 route.

 The views leaving Caithness and entering into Sutherland were spectacular, mountains to the west and glimpses of the sea to the north. Signs for Dounreay jogged a distant memory that heralded the gigantic strides of British technology that built 3 nuclear reactors which were operational until 1994. Only the iconic apple green sphere is now visible as the area is now contaminated with low levels of radiation and in the process of being demolished. Perhaps it was passing that site that made my map of Bonanza start to sting?! 

The descent into Bettyhill and subsequent ascent to Borgie afforded me great views of sandy coves which looked inviting but not to be surpassed by the view from Coldbackie to the NW to the Rabbit Islands at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue. 

Shortly after leaving the main A836, perhaps the only A road in the British Isles that is single track and has passing places, a rapid hairpin descent brought me alongside the shore line and mussel beds in the Kyle of Tongue. A few hundred yards further on and the Kyle of Tongue hostel welcomed me. A fantastic room with a view,  a secure bike store and a well stocked fridge of Orkney ales. What else could a person ask for?! 

So I sat in the residents lounge with the sun streaming through the windows, sipping a bottle of local beer and chatting to some of the residents who were field officers for a charity who logged the wildlife and birds on the Scottish Highland Estates.  They had spent their day walking the moorlands noting down how many red squirrels and rare birds they'd seen.  I finished the day catching up on TV and hoping that weather stayed fair and that my Map of Bonanza doesn’t get any worse! 

Scotland the Brave

 

With the van loaded and the bike strapped down, with a bit of help from Jonny, I headed north on Friday with the the other Bank Holiday travellers to do battle on the M5& M6.  5 hours later I had checked in to the Tickled Trout hotel, quaffed a large G&T and settled into my room for a quiet night. Saturday was a long day of driving… heading for Elgin 30 miles east of Inverness which was slightly off route but gave me a chance to catch up with an old work colleague who works for the Scottish Ambulance Service! Dave Payne was a generous and gracious host providing me with a bed, a Chinese take away and access to his wife’s collection of malt whisky. Needless to say I slept well. My 7 hour drive had taken me passed a whole host of well known distilleries, Glenfarclas, Glenlivet, Glen Moray to name but a few. I made a mental note to call in on my way back south, on my bike. Elgin to Wick on Sunday morning was a very pleasant drive that skirted Inverness and followed the gorse lined A9 and A99 with spectacular views across the Cromarty Firth and the Dornoch Firth.  Arrival in Wick was heralded with warm sunshine, perhaps a taste of things to come! My home for the night is the Norseman  Hotel which overlooks the river and seems to be where most of the population of Caithness come to eat their Sunday lunches so the bar area resembles a cross between a school refectory and a pensioners centre , with an overpowering smell of overcooked vegetables. I think I may eat my Scotch eggs in my room?! 

So tomorrow I’ll say farewell to my trusty van and load the panniers, attach the batteries and start the cycling part of my journey. The weather seems to be in my favour at the moment but for how long?

Laters! 

JOGLE MY JUGS & CALL ME JULIE

 It’s Monday 24th April and Friday’s departure date is rapidly approaching. My plan to cycle from John O Groats to Lands End, contemplated and planned after I returned from France last year, is about to become a reality! 

I may not complete it as one trip and I’m not fundraising for charity…so why am I doing it? Over the next few weeks I’m sure I’ll find many reasons why and probably several as to why I shouldn’t have done

So today marks the day when I start gathering my bits and pieces and packing the panniers. On Friday I will collect my rental van from Cardiff, load the bike & luggage and head north, stopping in Preston, Perth and hopefully arriving in Wick on Sunday night. Monday May1st is D Day, leaving the van in Wick and heading to Thurso via John O Groats. 

My intention is to update the blog with the details of the journey when I’m able to …laters! 

“When I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the human race”

HG Wells