In praise of the Derbyshire Trails

"It's grim up North!" is a concept that I've never subscribed to.  Having spent a large proportion of my formative years growing up in Yorkshire,  the North has always been home and the scenery is far from grim!  So my Christmas present this year to Sue and hers to me, was a week in a cottage in the Derbyshire village of Brassington near Matlock.  We'd previously spent some time exploring the area and were keen to return to discover new walks (for Sue and the dogs) and new cycle routes for me!  Our cottage for the week was perfect - 100m from the nearest pub, the extremely welcoming and friendly Miners Arms and a ten minute cycle ride to the north and you were on the High Peak Trail which follows the line of the former Cromford and High Peak Railway line. Ten minutes in the opposite direction lays the vast expanse of Carsington Water, a water sports activity centre and cycling centre.

Brassington to Bakewell

I thought I'd warm up with short country lane ride from Brassington to Bakewell (where the tarts come from).  The plan was to cycle from the cottage and meet Sue in Bakewell at the farmer's market.    The first kilometre or so was uphill and in the direction of the village of Elton.  I stopped at a view point at the wonderfully named  Rainslow Scrins.

Rainslow Scrins

 The area was an important lead mining area and " scrins " were the thin veins of lead ore. Heading north to the village of Youlgreave I came across a field of Alpacas who didn't  seem that interested in greeting me! 

Alpacas or Llamas?

 The descent into Youlgreave was f followed by a short climb and then another gentle descent into Bakewell.  The Farmer's Market happens on the last Saturday of the month and well worth a visit to see the array of local pies, pickles and beers!

Tour de Brassington

With the weather set fair for the week, I decided to venture further afield the following day.  My planned route was to cycle from the Cottage onto the High Peak trail (NCR 54) as far as Parsley Hay then head south on the Tissington Trail (NCR 68) down to the market town of Ashbourne returning to Brassington via Carsington Water.  But to quote another well known saying, "The best laid plans of mice and men...." meant several detours due to the felling of trees and resurfacing work being carried out on the Tissington Trail. The 13 miles trail follows the route of the old Buxton to Ashbourne railway line which was opened in 1899 and closed in 1967.  It was one of the main routes that supplied milk to London and under normal circumstances offers  fantastic views of the Derbyshire Dales - I would imagine that now the trees have been cropped those views will have opened up even more!  

The High Peak Trail also offers stunning views across the Peak District.  Thanks to a group of local cyclists heading in the opposite direction, I hadn't gone too far down the Tissington Trail before they informed me of the trail closure so I was able to reroute  Komoot.  The hazardous journey from Biggin to Tissington village took me down the busy A515 with numerous speeding lorries getting too close for comfort!  The turn for Tissington village couldn't come soon enough so I was pleased to arrive in the "chocolate box picture" village with its low stone cottages and village hall and duck pond in one piece.  The ford at Bradbourne Mill fortunately had a footbridge so at least I avoided the raging torrent. Onward to Carsington and Hopton where I caught up with a local cyclist who was heading for his afternoon jaunt to Chatsworth House.  We shared a few kilometres before he headed off , having vowed to try and convince his father in law to get an ebike and I returned to Brassington,  notching up another convert to the beauty of ebikes! 

High Peak Trail

A couple of days later I returned to Bakewell, only this time with the bike on the back of the car. I'd arranged to meet Sue in the Miners Arms in Eyam (pronounced eem) for lunch so set off from Bakewell station on the Monsal Trail towards Miller's Dale before heading north to Tideswell and Great Hucklow and onto Eyam.  

Bakewell to Eyam

The Monsal Trail was opened in 1981 and follows the route of the old Midland railway line which was built in 1863 to link Manchester to London and closed in 1968 by the then Labour Transport Minister, Barbara Castle.  It lay unused for 12 years until the Peak District Nation Park took it over.  Shortly after leaving Bakewell I reached Hassop Station which now houses a very pleasant cafe. 

Hassop Station Cafe

Through the well lit  Headstone Tunnel and I arrived at Monsal Head with its impressive views along the Wye valley from the equally impressive viaduct. Just before entering the Cressbrook Tunnel you look down on the majestic Cressbrook Mill which  up until 1971 produced high quality cotton and lace.  It fell into disrepair before being restored and now houses luxury apartments. 

Monsal Head

Cressbrook Mill

 At Miller's Dale station I left the Monsal Trail towards the village of Tideswell, best known for it's 14th Century church known as the Cathedral of the Peak and onward to the Miner's Arms for a well earned pint of Eyam Golden Bitter and a ham sandwich!

Eyam

 Eyam is known as the "Plague Village" as a result of the outbreak of the Black Death in 1665 caused by the arrival of damp cloth which had arrived from London and which was opened by the local tailor, who subsequently died and was followed days later by others in the house. The villagers, led by the local clergymen, took the decision to isolate the village from other surrounding villages with local merchants leaving supplies on marked stones outside the village and the Eyam villagers leaving the money to pay for the goods in vinegar soaked holes, believing  that the vinegar killed the infection! The number of people to have survived the 14 months of the plague is disputed, some say it was 83 other sources however put it as high as 480.

The very welcoming Miner's Arms, Brassington

View from the Monsal Head Viaduct

If you are looking for somewhere that offers great walks and cycle rides with fine views and wonderful villages with welcoming local pubs, look no further than Derbyshire, you won't be dissapointed.