Bristol to Llantwit Major

Bristol Saturday Rest Day

So as they say, there is no rest for the wicked and as such, after eating our freshly baked croissants by the pool we set out for a little bike ride taking in some of the local beauty spots  First port of call was the decommissioned nuclear power station at Oldbury, followed  by the Picnic site at Sharpness Docks. Not a lot there  really and Sharpness village didn’t fare much better, best described as a one horse town where the horse has ###### off. Eventually we found a pub for some liquid refreshment and a spot of lunch.

We navigated our way back to Villa Olli via the White Hart in Olveston where we encountered some proper cyclists who had just cycled from Hay on Wye  a mere 90km away. 

Another hot tub and drinks session was followed by a superb meal of Boeuf Bourguinon cooked by our very own hostess. The evening got a little hazy after all the exertions of the day so bed seemed a good option at midnight.

Bristol to Newport Sunday

I knew at some point I would need to make a decision as to whether to continue to Lands End or break off and make my way home. I hadn’t arranged any transport back from Lands End and with another up and coming Bank Holiday weekend it would be difficult for me to find accommodation and to get home in time  for me to head off to Majorca with Sue , if I continued. So I made the decision to ride home with the intention to complete the last section from Bristol to Lands End later in the year. The weekend had been a fitting end to the journey so far and Richard, Sanna & Einar’s generosity in arranging it, was quite simply, overwhelming. So a massive thanks to them! 

We bid each other farewell and Einar high tailed it back to Highgate whilst Richard , Sanna & I made our way to Chepstow. They got there before me strangely enough as their electric car goes faster than my electric bike. 

A quick drink in Chepstow and they headed back to Liphook whilst I struck out for Newport. Of all the towns and cities that I’ve visited on this trip, Newport must take the dubious accolade of being my least favourite. Why? Knob head young drivers in high powered cars trying to race each other on public roads and weed smelling hooded youths hurtling about streets on motorbikes pulling wheelies without any helmets, to name just two reasons … oh and the burnt out caravan at the side of the A 48 and… the list is endless… thank goodness for the sanctuary of the Premier Inn! 

Newport to Llantwit Major Monday

The A48 is not the place to be in the rush hour on a Monday morning but I had little choice. Squeezing in between the taxis and the busses was like taking part in the Whacky Races. It was with relief that I made it to Culverhouse Cross and the relative safety of the Vale of Glamorgan, I was nearly home.  Time to pop in to the Racetrack Cafe for some breakfast where the regular motorcyclists had shown great interest in my trip before I left  3 weeks ago. So I'd made it... and according to my tracking app...80.5 hours cycling, 1442kms covered and 11,910m ascended. Other stats of significance...no punctures, one whole day of rain, one afternoon of rain and one morning of rain, one electrical switch issue and one falling off incident!

I've now got to decide when to do the last leg from Bristol to Lands End and figure a way of getting back. The highlights of this trip have been many, the scenery, the friends who have cycled with me or accommodated me and the freedom of the open roads. And of course a special thanks to Sue for letting me be away for 3 weeks... although I secretly suspect she enjoyed a tidy house.

TBC

Stourport to Bristol

 Stourport to Cheltenham Thursday

I left the Angel Inn in Stourport having slept well… no flashing lights in my room! My route to Cheltenham took me onto NCR 45 which had contributed to my mud covering and falling off episodes of the previous day, so it was with some degree of trepidation that I started turning the pedals for another day in the saddle. Still, the sun was shining and it was warm and the morning’s ride through the lanes and byways of Worcestershire was very pleasant. I stopped briefly in Droitwich Spa for the sustenance of a bacon butty before heading off through Worcester. Worcester was not paved in gold but at least the Cycleways through the town were paved and well sign posted. Shortly after Worcester I had 2 encounters with two pairs of cyclists who were also doing the End to End ride, but the other way round. They were LEJOGers as opposed to me who is JOGLEr! One of the couples were Australian and had flown over specifically to do the ride. Both in their 70’s , they had allowed themselves 41 days! We shared our experiences thus far and wished each other safe journeys before cycling off, them north and me south.

The afternoon life got more difficult again after I left the pretty market town of Tewkesbury. Road closures meant detours, lengthening my day and muddy single track sections, which I avoided also led to detours. 

The buzz of traffic from the M5 was never very far away and with the familiar sight of the Malvern hills in the distance was a reminder of just how far I’d come in 18 days.

As a result of the detours the final 10km were cycled on busy main roads with several impatient drivers overtaking perilously close to me… I now know how Prince Harry must feel being chased through New York by the papperazzi. 

The Premier Inn on the northern outskirts of Cheltenham was eventually located after an argument with my satnav! Thank goodness for Google Maps. 

Cheltenham to Bristol Friday

What a great cycle! I was looking forward to catching up with the Liphook Loafer and the Highgate Viking for the weekend and the ride to Villa Olli where we would be staying, was the icing on the cake. Admittedly I got a little lost in Gloucester but once I was back on the route, the cycling was nice and easy. Flat, with the sun shining again, I followed the Gloucester and Sharpness canal which has a proliferation of swing bridges that are manned to allow larger vessels to pass up or down to the River Severn at Sharpness. 

Passing through  Frampton on Severn and Berkeley, I arrived at the Villa to be greeted & filmed by the Loafer! 

The Villa or converted barn is fantastic. Swimming pool, hot tub, pool table and every conceivable gadget that you could want. Dinner was even cooked for us by our host, Olivia, a charming French lady from Brittany. 

A lounge in the hot tub with a large glass of something red was a fitting end to a perfect day. 

Northwich to Stourport

Northwich to Newport Tuesday

 

Mike & Tina were as usual , wonderful hosts! Fed, watered and wearing clean clothes I headed off passing the Anderson Boat lift in the direction of Winsford. First obstacle of the day… the cycle path was closed…

So a 5km detour eventually got me into Winsfordand across the River Weaver. The cycling was fantastic… small flat back roads, great scenery and a following wind so by the time I reached Nantwich I was well ahead of  schedule. Market Drayton proved to be a rich source of supplies and within an hour I was pulling in to the Premier Inn. Another schoolboy error had led me to book the hotel for the wrong date so by the time I’d amended my booking, the price had doubled! But every cloud has etc… so a big shout out to Wayne from Premier Inn reception who sorted my mess out for me! 

Newport to Stourport on Severn Wednesday

After a bad night in the PI Newport I felt I was due for a little luck…it was not to be. Premier Inn’s signature colour is purple & for those who have stayed in their hotels will know that the light behind the bed glows purple when switched on. Not in room 26… it flashes at 30 second intervals but only after 0230 ! I left in a huff and stopped just before Telford at a McDonalds to write a stiff letter of complaint on cardboard. 

My route basically followed the River Severn southwards through Telford, Bridgnorth, Bewdley and onto Stourport. NCR 45 is a great route up to a point but with fully laden panniers at times it became very trying! At one stage trying to get back on route I ploughed my way through thick wet clay which clogged up my shoes, wheels and any thing else it decided to get its claws into! I also fell off… No injuries fortunately, only a dented pride. 

Arriving  at the Angel Inn in Stourport on Severn I was greeted by mine host, Mark! A more hospitable and generous landlord one could ever hope to meet! He supplied me with a bucket, a brush and a hosepipe to clean the bike and most importantly a pint! 

It’s been probably the most testing of days today but the route from Shropshire into  Worcestershire has been generally flat with a lot of gravel tracks and paths and the added bonus of remaining dry! 

Langholm to Northwich

 

Having the heating on for most of the night in my room had solved the problem of wet clothes but trying to sleep in a sauna is not conducive for a peaceful nights rest. The route out of Langholm seemed to be mostly uphill. Once I reached the plateau I made good progress and was looking forward to crossing from Scotland into England. Passport control was not going to be a bother and I was anticipating the large signs informing me that I was leaving Scotland and entering the land of my birth..So it came as somewhat of a disappointment that as I flashed down a hill and crossed a bridge, I caught a glimpse of a dirty white sign that read, WELCOME TO CUMBRIA. Deflated , I pushed on to the walled city of Carlisle, its castle dominating the skyline. Weaving my way through the city I soon was on NCR7 but after a couple of kilometres my way was blocked by gas pipes being laid so a detour was necessary. 

A short refuelling stop in Raughtonhead and I was soon string in Penrith to be welcomed at the Wayfarers Hostel in a leafy suburb of the town. The hostel was very comfortable and had the added bonus of being very close to a Booths supermarket. 

For those readers not familiar with the shops north of Watford Gap, Booths is posh version of Waitrose and can be found in such delightful small towns such as Ilkley and Penrith! 

I spent the evening in the kitchen talking to Anita and Denise. Denise was visiting a friend and was about to set off on a cafe crawl with said friend. It’s a bit like a pub crawl though I suspect there’s more coffee and cake involved. Anita was a German teacher who was cycling around the north of England and Scotland and was taking 3 months off her job. We swapped tales of derring do and our own adventures until my eyelids started to droop… time to retire to my en suite room…and avoid the snoring from the mixed dorm above me! 

Penrith to Morecambe Saturday 

The sun was shining for what was to be one of the best days of cycling so far. The destination was Morecambe a mere 50 miles away. The first dilemma was where to have breakfast so I opted for Booths Cafe. In hindsight, leaving my rucksack in the cafe was a schoolboy error, which could have been worse had I packed it with essential things like my credit cards. It wasn’t until I’d reached Kendal where I’d decided to stop to take in the view that I realised that the it was missing. The upshot was I phoned the store , spoke to the manager and , yes they had found it and would send it to my home address, free of charge! So a big shout out to BOOTHS of Penrith. I did suggest to the Manager that it wasn’t necessary to send back the banana that was in the 

The ride was fantastic, great views climbing up from Penrith to Shap and a roller coaster descent into Kendal. Onward along through Carnforth and the views over Morecambe bay to the fells of the Lake District, all made for wonderful day’s cycling. 

Sipping my well earned pint in the Best Western Hotel overlooking the bay I was looking forward to an early night and the Eurovision Song Contest!

Morecambe to Northwich Sunday

This was the longest day so far. I was heading for Northwich to stay with friends Mike & Tina. I was keen to get most of this section of JOGLE done quickly as most of the guide books I’d read suggested that the North West of England is not the most scenic of rides! 

I made an early start as I was keen to avoid traffic as the route I’d planned was mostly on roads. The first section was along the Cycleway that links Morecambe and Lancaster.  My route took me right through the middle of the town and out passed the University halls of residence, where I glimpsed a few bleary eyed students making their way home , obviously they’d been celebrating Sweden’s success in Eurovision. From Lancaster it was mainly cycling on the A6 which runs parallel for large parts of the M6, so if the noise of the traffic on the motorway wasn’t deafening you, the roar of motorbikes on the A6 would get you! I stopped in Garstang for a healthy fry up and then headed for Preston, again cycling right through the middle of the town where I witnessed one of my favourite jokes… a guy standing on a street corner wearing a Stetson singing a Dolly Parton cover version… he was that #### from Preston. After Preston came Leyland, Chorley and Wigan and I crossed the River Mersey and the Manchester ship canal at Warrington. The roads were busy and generally  the motorists were careful and courteous to those of us out on bikes.

By the time I reached Mike & Tina’s house my legs were flagging and my knees were sore so a welcome glass of something thirst quenching in their garden overlooking the canal was most welcome. 

Tomorrow is a rest day and a chance to catch up with M&T and do some washing and clean the trusty steed. 

Perth to Langholm

 Perth to Edinburgh Tuesday

What a difference a day makes! The gloom and despondency of yesterday disappeared as soon as the sunshine appeared. The concern over my electrical issue was still playing on my mind but the weather helped dissipate that. I met a couple of local cyclists heading in the same direction as me who stopped to offer words of encouragement, well I think that’s what they said? 

A siting of 2 hares loping across a field  made me realise how different the landscape now was in comparison to a few days ago. A long climb out of Perth and a road closure meant that I was considering looking for somewhere to recharge but the long downhill into Cowdenbeath prevented this. And then … karma… as I was about to cross the Firth of Forth , I spotted Ryan’s Bike Clinic, a small bike shop , run by Ryan!

 I explained my problem to him and lo and behold he produced the very spare part that I needed! He didn’t even charge me for fitting it So let’s hear it for Ryan,,, and to highlight the day further there was an axe throwing bar opposite Ryan’s shop! I did wonder whether he popped across during his lunch hours?

Crossing the Firth of Forth was like crossing the Severn Bridge only less traffic! Skirting round the west of  Edinburgh I eventually found my accommodation for the night, The Riccarton Inn. A pint, a bowl of Cullen Skink and it was bed time! 

Edinburgh to Melrose Wednesday

Refreshed, despite the people in the next door to  me attempting to hack their way into my room through their cupboard at 2 am, I left early in the Hope of dodging the rush hour traffic round Edinburgh  I timed it badly so the ring roads out of the city were busy with commuter traffic. Eventually the housing estates gave way to rolling hills and fields of rape seed  My route ran parallel to the main A7  along the Gala Water valley so the cycling was nice and easy. I stopped for coffee in a little village called Stow and as I left the rain started .A couple of showers later the sun reappeared so another stop to adjust my luggage and clothing and time for refuelling!

 Shortly after , I arrived in Galashiels, a bustling market town which is the commercial centre for the Borders area of Scotland and once famed for its textile industry. A short stones throw down the road was my hotel for the night, The Waverley Castle, a splendid 70 bedroom Victorian mansion set in its own parkland grounds. 

It was like stepping back in time and even better was I’d been upgraded to a Superior room, which meant I got biscuits with the tea and coffee in my room! I spent the early part of the evening in the hotel bar talking to a retired ship builder and his wife from Ulverston who were having a short break away from the bustle of the Lake District?! My day ended with food, a glass of wine and bed having planned tomorrow’s ride and booked my accommodation. It’s a simple life on the road! 

Melrose to Langholm Thursday

Breakfast was eaten in the company of the Malta Rugby Sevens team who were in town for a competition  Melrose apparently was where 7’s was invented. 

My route today took me on NCR 1 which ran alongside the River Tweed for a while  The sun shone and the cycling was nice and easy following the valleys south towards Eskdalemuir. A short climb out of Selkirk, an old mill town which reminded me of the mill towns of Yorkshire, and I was out into the rolling hills  of  the Borders. Sheep grazing in fields and and forest plantations were my company for a good few miles, scarcely populated with the occasional farm. The road which climbs its way up through Eskdalemuir Forest eventually comes down and provided me with about 7km of free wheeling at high speed, which took me out of the Borders and into Dumfries and Galloway. 

At this point I came across The Sanmyeling Tibetan Buddhist Temple. Opened in 1967 it provides a place of retreat and for Buddhist training. I had a wander round but saw no one and the only sounds wee from the sounds were from the prayer wheels turning. I must have done something in a former life and perhaps it was the wasp that I had killed in my shower the day before, but on leaving this place of tranquillity, the heavens opened and for the last 15 miles of the ride , I got a thorough soaking! 

I arrived at the Eskdale Hotel in Langholm like a drowned rat and dripped all over the reception area. I humped all my gear up to my room and turned on the radiator and the towel rail in the hope that by the morning , it’ll all be dry ready for Friday!